Haze | Sigiriya, Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka

Climbing the Lion Rock

One of the most unique landmarks in Sri Lanka is Sigiriya, the Lion Rock. Most of the time when you imagine the site of an ancient city, you think of grand entrances, moats, walls, and carvings that take hours to explore via pathways and roads. This city though, is unlike any other I’ve seen. It’s nearly completely in ruin. All that exists of the both city and of the palace are foundations, a few paintings, and a moat. Oh, and the giant enormous rock on top of which the palace was built.

Hazy view | Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

The story of Sigiriya is an interesting one – it’s full of murder, family deception, retribution, and greed. In the 5th century, the King of Sri Lanka was killed by Kasyapa, one of his own two sons. Kasyapa wanted the throne for himself of course. After the murder, the King’s other son fled to India afraid for his life.

Kasyapa moved to capital city from Anuradhapura to Sigiriya, where he built his palace on top of the giant rock and built the new capital city around its base. He felt the rock would provide him fortress-style protection from his brother who may come to kill him in retribution for their father’s murder.

The city and palace were designed beautifully with gardens and reflecting pools and frescoes, though all that’s left now are foundations and a few paintings. The one notable piece of remaining architecture is the palace’s entrance on a landing near the top of the rock. It was designed as an enormous ferocious lion with an open mouth through which visitors would have to walk through the enter the palace. Unfortunately all that is left today of the lion entrance are the paws – a truly eerie and other-worldly sight. (And paws down, my favorite part of Sigiriya) Call it a hunch, but I’m pretty sure this is why it’s nicknamed the Lion Rock.

Visitors to Sigiriya can explore both the city ruins and the palace. Honestly, I thought the city was underwhelming. All that is left is a maze of rock walls, trees, a moat, and some scavenging monkeys. I would just skip the city and head right to the 1200-step stairway you must climb to reach the top of the rock.

Ruins and stairs |Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

When the steps start, they seem harmless. Stone steps that get slightly steeper, slightly more narrow, slightly more intense. But they eventually turn into THIS.

Scary staircases | Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

Not awesome for people with a fear of heights or claustrophobia. But they really are doable and they do feel sturdy. And trust me, seeing the lion paws and the views from the top of the rock makes this terrifying journey worth the effort in the end.

About halfway up the climb, you’ll reach one of the caves in which 1600-year-old frescoes of Aspara nymphs are painted along the walls. This is one of the few items that still remain from the original city. Considering how little protection there is here, they are shockingly well preserved.

Guarding the cave paintings | Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

This rope and this guy are apparently all the protection these priceless paintings need.

Cave paintings | Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

Inside the cave | Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

Keep walking. The views on the climb up are pretty amazing.

Looking down on the city ruins | Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

Shortly after the caves, you’ll come upon a natural landing in the rock. You’ve finally reached the lion paws. Success!

This was my favorite part of the climb. When else will you see enormous rock lion hands? They are the most unique thing about this unique ancient city. Take a minute and enjoy them. But watch out for the hornets. Wait, what?

Lion paws and staircase | Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

Feelin like Indiana Jones.

View from lion paws landing | Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

The view from the landing

Lion paws close up | Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

Oh yeah, so the hornets. Did I mention the hornets?

The entire forest at the base of the rock is basically a breeding ground and community center for big scary Sri Lankan hornets. There are signs all over the grounds, like this one below, warning you to stay quiet and not to make sudden movements that could aggravate them. At the top of lion paw landing it can get so bad that they built a safe house for tourists in the event of a angry hornet swarm. Seriously. As it’s not uncommon for tourists to behave badly and disrespect nature, it’s understandable that hornet attacks are a concern here.

I am allergic to bee stings. I was very pleased that we had come so early in the day that we only shared Sigiriya with a few other tourists. Respectful, quiet, and slow moving tourists.

Hornet attack sign | Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

Hornet cage |Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

So once you’ve passed the city, the Aspara frescoes, admired the lion paws and NOT been stung by any hornets, you’ll have to climb up that deathtrappy looking staircase I referenced towards the beginning of this post. I was a little scared I’ll admit. But I just held on, didn’t look down, and put one foot after the other. Before I knew it I was on solid rock again and amongst the ruins of Kasyapa’s grand fortress. You can walk along the foundations and admire the views out to the countryside – a truly stunning site. And if you are lucky, the resident dogs will sniff out the snacks you packed in your day-bag and beg for them oh so cutely.

View from the ruins | Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

Ruins on top | Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

Dog friends on top | Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

my puppy friends who begged for my Chex Mix on top of the Lion Rock

View from the tip | Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

That’s it. Now you walk back down the deathtrappy staircases and through the hornet jungle to the parking lot.

While not that impressive as a ruin (save the lion paws), Sigiriya is definitely impressive as a unique bit of Sri Lankan history and natural landmark. I am glad we ventured up to the Sigiriya region to see it and and that we climbed all the way to the top.

I am also glad that I did not get stung by a hornet.

Practical Information
*There is a serious tourist price to get into Sigiriya. While locals pay only a few rupees, foreigners have to pay USD $30, though at least it gives you access to both the park and the museum.
*Bring water. Climbing stairs in tropical humidity is hard work.
*Getting here is easy via bus, taxi, tuk tuk, or bicycle. I scheduled a taxi to drop me at the front and meet me in the parking lot and it was very easy. You may want to ask your driver to stick around and wait for you instead of finding a new driver at the end.

 

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5 Comments

  • Reply The Gathering of the Elephants | TravelShus August 14, 2014 at 4:27 pm

    […] Sigiriya – one of the most popular tourist sites in the north-central region. (By the way, Climbing Sigiriya and visiting the park can easily be done in one […]

  • Reply Manesha October 30, 2014 at 12:54 am

    Dear Annie,
    Read through your blog posts. It is lovely to see that you have had an adventure, climbing all the way to the top of Sigiriya rock. and had a wonderful stay at Jetwing Vil Uyana. Below is a project which Embark Sri Lanka is carrying out partnered with Jetwing Vil Uyana. Please take a look!

    Embark together with Jetwing Vil Uyana and the veterinary service provider Best Care are on a mission to make Sigiriya rabies free!
    The Sigiriya Project follows an extensive approach of eliminating rabies to create a safe environment for communities, tourists and
    of course all dogs. With many requests coming in from different parts of the world, we set out to conquer Sigiriya.
    We began ground work in May 2014 and completed the first phase of the program on the 25th of October. The project is Co- funded by Embark and Jetwing Hotels Sri Lanka and FBB (Fondation Brigitte Bardot) and partners with Best Care Animal Hospital as veterinary service provider.
    As with the other CNVR programs implemented by Embark during the past years, this project also follows internationally accepted CNVR methodology.

    Take a look at our work at http://on.fb.me/1tbw02i

    Please comment on the above album and share the same with your friends and family!

    Regards,

    • Reply Annie November 11, 2014 at 4:07 pm

      I saw a lot of Embark signs around Colombo and was really excited to see that the group exists. Dog rescue is close to my heart and a cause I contribute to here in the US. My pup is a rescue and Im so glad we were able to save her.

  • Reply The Jetwing Vil Uyana: My Personal Heaven | TravelShus September 25, 2015 at 11:44 pm

    […] time difference was BRUTAL to over come. Our second day was spent running around the region: we climbed Sigiriya and hung out with elephants at Minneriya National Park. Having a comfortable place to return to was […]

  • Reply Scenes from Gangaramaya Temple | TravelShus September 25, 2015 at 11:47 pm

    […] put my finger on why. It wasn’t even so much prettier or more interesting than say Sigiriya or the Golden Temple. But when you visit a temple right after a rainstorm and just before sunset, […]

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